Saturday, 18 September 2010

Best bits from Day One...LFW

More from Day one...the Eun Jeong presentation was particularly interesting! Firstly, the location at Russell Chambers in Covent Garden was a refreshing change and really suited the set up. The 3 rooms were set up almost like a house or studio, with various props such as desks, jewellery, as if they were part of the design process.
The main room, probably the strongest was filled with pretty models wearing interesting but wearable pieces. The prints were really strong and there were some creative silhouettes, without being overly wacky. Everything felt considered.
My favourite piece. Really interesting draping detail and pretty without being really over the top girlie, which was refreshing. The black dress was also very strong, not my usual cup of tea but loved it next to the grey number.
The third room was filled with manniquins with a mixture of pieces. I particularly enjoyed the draped dresses, something Eun won the Fashion Fringe award for in 2008. The overall setup felt considered and every room felt different, but still part of the same collection.
There was a lot to take in, something I appreciated. Minimalist exhibitions are good in the sense they are focussed, with maybe only a few looks, but there was substance and it felt accomplished.
Main highlight of the day...Vauxhall Fashion Scout 'Ones to watch'.

Four fresh Designers Debut at LFW’s ‘Ones to Watch’

Vauxhall Fashion Scout is delighted to announce the SS11 line-up for London Fashion Week’s leading showcase of new fashion talent – Ones to Watch. Featuring four exciting, innovative designers, Ones to Watch SS11 presents A.Hallucination, Charlotte Taylor, Georgia Hardinge and Lilee in a back-to-back show this September.

Over the past three seasons Ones to Watch has successfully launched a whole new generation of emerging young designers. Alumni include Hermione de Paula, Alice Palmer, Ada Zanditon, Dean Quinn and this season’s Merit Award winner Eudon Choi.

Design duo, A.Hallucination, consists of two South Korean Menswear designers, Hwan Sung Park and Chung Chung Lee. Between them, the two Central Saint Martins graduates have worked for a number of well-respected fashion houses including Burberry, Alexander McQueen, Tom Ford, Ozwald Boateng and Lie Sang Bong Paris. Their exciting vision of menswear is based on cutting edge tailoring immersed with contemporary aesthetic.

Inspired by the weird and the wonderful, from grannies to penguins, Charlotte Taylor’s approach to design is quirky, playful and colourful: the work of a true Brit. This may come as no surprise when you know she previously worked for the notable British fashion label, Luella. Last season saw the critically acclaimed launch of the Charlotte Taylor label at Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Designer Exhibition during London Fashion Week.

After graduating from Parson’s Paris School of Art and Design and winning the ‘Golden Thimble’ for Best Designer at her Graduate show, Georgia Hardinge returned to her birthplace, London, in 2009 to set up her own fashion label. Inspired by architectural shapes and sculpture, Hardinge experiments with cut to create beautifully structured garments, many of which have already gathered quite a following amongst celebs, including Little Boots, The Saturdays and Erin O’Connor.

Lilee is also an award-winning graduate from the internationally acclaimed London College of Fashion’s MA course. The young designer was awarded the highly commendable prize at her MA graduate show at the V&A this January for her exquisite creations which expressed elegance and sophistication with an intricate attention to detail. Lilee has already completed a diffusion collection for the online fashion retailer ASOS, which will be on sale from this autumn. 

“Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Ones to Watch is more than just a showcase of the best new design talent.  We support and nurture our designers guiding them through the challenges of their catwalk show as well as helping them build sustainable businesses” Martyn Roberts, Director of Vauxhall Fashion Scout.

Ones to Watch is chosen by panel of industry experts who have extensive experience in working with and promoting new talent including vogue.com, Browns Focus, ASOS and Tank

Lilee was the first to start with a predominantly white collection.
Despite the lack of colour, the detailing and silhouettes were quite incredible. The level of attention paid to the back as well...It had a beautiful scultpural element to it and felt ambitious, yet it worked. She is definetely someone I will be looking out for.

Next up was Charlotte Taylor. The robot print was incredibly fresh and fun...
It felt like a coherent collection.
Waiting for a show, this cute girl had already snapped one of the designs up. Love the blue bow with the yellow of the robot, the designer's background at Luella apparent in the colour combinations and cheery mood.
Other elements were quite sporty, in a confident display of blues, greens, mustards and reds. This is definetely one to follow....

Georgina Hardinge closed the show, with a collection of sculptural dresses that were really something. I wasn't a huge fan of the ruffles that the collection opened with, as they didn't feel as relevant as the rest of the collection; I felt I had seen it before, but the sheer dresses were special.
This wasn't as coherent as Charlotte Taylor's collection, but overall I thought the entire show was a triumph, showing a wide selction of new talent, each individually strong in their own right.

All photos by Lauren Sanins

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