Thursday, 23 September 2010

More from Day 4...LFW

This would be a very long post on one designer as I could quite literally put up every photo I took of Peter Pilotto's collection. I dragged myself out of bed for the 9 am show, but my god am I glad I made it in.
The quality of my scanner doesn't pick up the reflective quality of the invitation, which looked to be of some installation/architecture, similar to that of the venue at the old Eurostar platform at Waterloo (again, running up 5 slopes was fun!) Background on the artist of the installation:
One of the inspirations was a book of rock climbers, which found itself into the silhouette, fabrics and print and the other main inspiration was 70's YSL, which found its way into the chic ladylike silhouettes.
There were of course the digital prints that Peter Pilotto are known for, this time based on the neon hoists that rock climbers use. There was a subtlety to them this time, as if trying to push the print beyond what they usually do, in more of a 3-dimensional way. The blue and peach tones on the parachute silk had a real Summer vibe and felt more considered than previous collections.
Love the colour combo of the blue and more neutral shades. The mid calf length of the skirts I usually associate with being unflattering and often frumpy was made youthful. And the fly away panelling gave the pieces a lightness and movement that make them both wearable and beautiful. I think the difference between this and Michael Van Der Ham is that you can imagine yourself wearing this collection. They're polished and refined, elegant but still cool.
More of the sportswear influence could be seen in the more structured pieces. Loved the slight cocoon shape, but I felt the more fluid column dresses had more appeal. These added a different dimension to the collection and had the most wearability appeal. Love the electric blue trousers for colour, which really stood out.
 The knitted ribbed pieces felt a bit random if I'm honest and weren't as coherent as the rest of the collection. The sportswear reference was there in the colours, body-con silhouette and technique and according to the press release exposed more of the colour underneath as the pieces stretched over the body. This seemed like a separate idea in itself.
By far, my favourite looks. Love the flash of print on the side of the cream trousers and the clever wrap-around panelled shirts. Creative and wearable!
This was another successful piece, for the colour and clever drape. You could see the source of inspiration within it, done in a clever, and subtle interpretation.

All photos by Lauren Sanins. For the video of the show finale, type laurensanins into youtube.com

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