The genius of Fashion East

This has to be another show that I have been looking forward to this London Fashion Week, based again on my flat mate's enthusiasm (she hasn't shut up about it!!) as she saw it last season. Michael Van der Ham showed within Fashion East last season and is now doing some fantastic things on his own. Ran by Lulu Kennedy, 10 years ago now actually, Fashion East is a non-profit initiative that offers a small amount of designers each season the opportunity to show at London Fashion Week. Designers receive a bursary, mentoring, free catwalk and team; basically its a dream come true for designers wanting to kickstart their own label. I have witnessed a lot of talent and amazing (and some not so great) things at London Fashion Week this season, but I have to say Fashion East has been my favourite. It wasn't the fact that there were 3 collections for the price of one, as if I had been to each of the designer's shows individually, I would have held the same opinion. Each collection was different and had its own strengths and moods.

Heikki Salonen

Opening the show, Heikki Salonen presented a glam grunge collection that was based on black and white photographs of Native Americans, wrapped in blankets with long dark hair and 90's skaters. The pieces have been named after skaters, such as the Alva jacket and the Mullen shirt coat, which in all honesty means nothing to me but I like the idea of being able to wear anything you want and hanging out with friends and generally having a good time.

Each piece has been designed 'part by part' according to the press release and described as 'actual pieces-real clothing that's supposed to be worn.' As much as I admire and appreciate conceptual design and beautiful clothing, for example, Michael Van der Ham's collection, I am loving this wearability each piece has. The silhouette changes from piece to piece but it still feels like a tight collection. There is a real grungey feel, but I can imagine wearing the clothes and still feeling cool and confident. They are the type of pieces you could wear anywhere and do anything in, as it says in the press release, 'You could wear these to climb a mountain.' Really??!!

These 2 looks were a particular highlight...I want all the jackets!!

Felicity Brown

Felicity Brown's collection of voluminous ruffled dresses certainly had the strongest colour palette, ranging from turquoise, jade and tangerine. Garments were like pieces of artwork, with up to sixty layers of ruffles going into the construction of the dresses. Inspiration was taken from artwork, such as paintings by Marlene Duma and 1930's films, 'to translate the concept of a woman in a painting into fabric.' This was the most dramatic collection of the three and had quite a theatrical element to it. Each piece had a beautiful depth to it, created using batik silk layers on an organza base.

The tone of the yellow dress was breathtaking and the colour combos of the pieces were these pieces were by far the strongest of the show. The turquoise and pink look broke up the drama of the ruffled pieces. I would have liked to see a few more looks like this.

Simone Rocha

As much as I loved the other 2 collections, Simone Rocha's was probably my favourite of the three. Androgynous, tailored pieces were deconstructed in white, the colour of Chinese mourning, with a palette of texture made out of washed cottons, silks, linen and leather. There were cutaway panels and tulle windows in blazers, with a flash of pink in a piece in the collection. Tulle was used inventively, contrasting a masculine idea with a feminine notion. The aluminium collar accessories were a real treat also, complimenting the stark white and masculinity.

 The use of sheer was clever and felt new through the silhouette and the contrast with the androgynous shapes.

Probably my favourite piece of the collection. Love the hints of nudity, through the deconstruction of the shirt, although it still feels refined and polished.

The pink tulle blazer was technically brilliant and considered with sheer windows and a pinky haze.

All images and video by Lauren Sanins. For videos of the other collections in the show, search laurensanins in youtube.com