FASHION MODE...LFW

More from Day 3..after seeing the Michael Van der Ham show, I thought nothing else would impress me. I wasn't sure what to expect from the Vauxhall Fashion Scout show, which included 4 up-and-coming designers. After nearly dying from running up the old eurostar ramps in heels, we ran over to Covent Garden and I'm glad we did. I have to admit that after the Ones to Watch show that I didn't think this could beat it. But it was bloody good!!

Carlotta Actis Barone opened the show with her collection titled, 'Wear my Skin'. It was an astounding collection that also had a deep message. The focus was on the fight against racism and in particular, the deportation of Africans to America during the Civil War. It sounds like something that should be discussed on a Channel 4 documentary, but her interpretation created something incredibly beautiful. Structured jackets with interesting panelling widened the models to highlight the idea of the muscular shoulders of slaves and political messages were emblazoned on body con under layers throughout. The colour palette remained neutral and as it stated in the press release, featured a range of shades of human skin tone to emphasise the diversity of people that suffered through slavery.

These draped dunagarees were a particular favourite.

This was another highlight. Not only beautifully draped, it represented the knotted and over-sized work clothes worn by slaves as they worked in the fields. Fabrics used were 'humble' cottons like those grown on the cotton plantations.

I have a special appreciation for this collection, as not only did it feel like it worked as a collection, it was innovative and had meaning. It wasn't a literal interpretation of something; it was based around an issue that had true significance to the designer which she reacted to to create fashion. Every aspect had been considered, from the silhouette, to the detailing, to the styling. I am looking forward to seeing where she takes her next collection.

Closing the show was Florian Jayet. He is a designer who has clearly had an amazing start interning at McQueen and presented a polished collection that had a really  modern aesthetic. He used the bodies of insects as his starting point to create armour like dresses that empowered the female figure...

The colour palette was really clean, suiting the futuristic silhouettes. Every piece was highly refined and polished and it generally felt considered.

Print was used minimally and cleverly to no draw attention from the amazing silhouettes. A particular fave was the dress in the centre.

I feel like I'm saying this for every new designer I have seen, but I am intrigued to see what Florian comes up with in the future. The press release stated that he gathers his inspirations from various sources such as textiles, tailoring and art and photography. Maybe he will move into the realms of fashion film as some designers do. I am a fan of a bit of drape, so this feels out of my usual taste, but there's something about the structures and the overall chic feel that works. If I had to chose between the two womenswear collections in this showcase, I don't think I could decide. Any thoughts...?

All photos by Lauren Sanins