The first show of Paris Fashion Week, I have to say is right up my street; Nicolas Andreas Taralis. Taught by Helmut Lang (I feel it would be a relevant point now to put up some of my fave images from their latest collection, seeing as I missed the opportunity in NYFW...bit late I know), he presented a tailored and androgynous collection, including mesh, sheer and a deconstructed feel through rips. This tailored, deconstructed feel was seen at Fashion East's Simone Rocha, except her's was predominantly white. This collection has a completely different feel. Perhaps more chic, more androgynous, more refined.
Interesting interview by Dazed Digitial:
Dazed Digital: What was the starting point for the collection?
Nicolas Andreas Taralis: It was really a continuation from the last collection. I never really change things in a big way each season. I was really thinking about traditional garments. It's always coming from really sartorial attitude especially in structured tailoring - I was always very interested in hand made tailoring. It's this idea of interesting, traditional garments which led me to think of folk.
Nicolas Andreas Taralis: It was really a continuation from the last collection. I never really change things in a big way each season. I was really thinking about traditional garments. It's always coming from really sartorial attitude especially in structured tailoring - I was always very interested in hand made tailoring. It's this idea of interesting, traditional garments which led me to think of folk.
DD: How did folk play into the collection?
Nicolas Andreas Taralis: Folk is an expression of a certain tribe and then I was thinking of certain tribes, like tribes today and street culture. Then I was trying to mix that with a certain artisanal or couture sensibility. It evolves in a very natural way for me - all these things come together in an unreferential way though I think this collection was probably my most referential to date, especially with the Byzantine looking silhouette.
Nicolas Andreas Taralis: Folk is an expression of a certain tribe and then I was thinking of certain tribes, like tribes today and street culture. Then I was trying to mix that with a certain artisanal or couture sensibility. It evolves in a very natural way for me - all these things come together in an unreferential way though I think this collection was probably my most referential to date, especially with the Byzantine looking silhouette.
DD: Tell us a little bit about the fabrics especially when you are only playing with one colour in the collection.
Nicolas Andreas Taralis:
There's a real sporty element, but it still feels really chic and wearable.
And from NYFW...a few highlights of Helmut Lang.
Pictures and interview from Dazed digital, other images style.com
The most difficult thing and most important part for me is simply the fabric choices. I tried this season to use as little as possible so I did different things to the fabrics such as washing, treating them, spraying them or using salt water dyes. In contrast, I used these treated fabrics with something sharp and clean. I like that equilibrium between something sharp and graphic and something a bit off or badly treated. There's a beauty in that tension. It's far more interesting to work on something with delicate codes to play around with rather than the obvious.
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